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Question # 1: To shoe or not to shoe that is the question. six year old never been shod, other owner said it wasn't necessary with his strong hooves.  How do you tell when or if?

Answer: This question depends on many things but the following are the most important of these.

First: the use of the animal; this being how often will you ride and on what type of surface.  If a horse is to only be ridden once a month on thick meadows and pine needles then there would be little need for shoes, but if the riding is to be daily several hours and on gravel or chat roads then no horse would survive long without being shod. 

Second: the condition of the horse and the strength of the hooves; some horses have very good hooves and a really thick side wall others do not. 

Third: the way the animal travels; some horses wear their feet evenly and others are prone to wear only the side/front/toe etc. If a horse does not move soundly with respect to its hooves then keeping that horse shod may the only option. 

Forth: The history of the horse; like most other animals, horses are somewhat adaptable and, over time, able to adjust to the conditions before them to a large degree. 

If you wish to attempt to keep and use regularly a horse that is not to be shod, that horse will need to be trimmed carefully and watched until you know what to expect. The trim is some what different for a horse that is being worked but not shod, and your farrier can help you with this, but in a nut shell there should be a slight roll around the edge of the hooves. This dulls the edges and protects them from breakage.

Question # 2: Love your articles and input, keep up the good work! I recently purchased a 2 year old gelding (just cut) who sometimes acts like he is going to strike (kick) at me. Sometimes when I go into his pen he will turn his back to me and pin his ears, but I can usually talk him out of that position or get to his side and push him out of that position. He did mildly kick me one time when I had him in a trailer, but at the time I thought he was kicking towards the unfamiliar horses behind him. All in all he's a sweet horse and I want to make sure I handle this properly. I have had horses on and off my entire life and I have never had to deal with kicking issues... Any thoughts? Thanks for your time.

Answer: This is clearly a cry for tough love. This youngster may only be playing at times but he is also learning. This behavior and your reactions to it will instill in him the “proper” respect between humans and horses- at least in his mind. Never forget that the basic wiring for all horses is “pecking order” = respect. That said you can not allow a part time response, if a horse EVER INTENTIONALLY BITES, KICKS, or otherwise causes INJURY to a human, it is unacceptable. What level of response that is required from you depends on the horse, but if this animal is to be a useful part of any horse/human relationship there must be an understanding that HORSES ARE NEVER ALLOWED TO HURT PEOPLE ON PURPOSE. NEVER.

When you approach this guy in a stall and he turns his rump to you, pop him on the rump with a rope or lead, not to hurt him at all, but just so he knows that is not acceptable. Be far enough back so that if you get the kicking response you are safe. As soon as he turns he head to you, stop popping him and back up a step, wait for a few seconds and see what he does next, if he stays focused on you take a step toward him. He will lean toward you, will pull back, or will turn the rump at you and pin the ears. If he leans toward, you extend your arm, and if he lets you, rub his neck as a reward. ( no sugar here! ) If he pulls back, but stays facing you, then back up a half step and wait again for a few seconds. If he turns his rump to you, pop him again. Repeat these as required and it will not be long until he will turn to face you as soon as you come in his space.

There are many ways to win this respect, one being in a round pen with workouts and teaching him other things. Unless this animal has already become spoiled to these bad habits they should go away almost as soon as you take him to the pen and teach him the normal respect tools that he is at this time missing. Good Luck.

Question # 3: I own a gray mare and am well aware of many peoples' worry of cancer in grays so I'm leaning toward breeding for blacks, duns, or palomino colors, any suggestions on the best studs to breed to get these colors? We also own Percheron draft horses and consistently get a gray foal out of a black mare and a gray stud. So I'm just not sure what to expect to get out of this Foxtrotter. Thanks much

Answer: Breeding for color is a tricky prospect at best, but if you are really interested then you should invest some time in learning the background of the horses for at least three generations and also learning about the dominate and recessive colors. As if that is not enough, the colors on horses are multiple allele genetic traits which means that even colors that look alike may do so for different reasons, and therefore cross out with completely differently results. The up side is, if you limit all your experiments to horses that are conformationly correct, have good minds, and proper gaits whatever the results, you will be happy to show them off.

Question # 4: I have a 7 year old Reg. MF gelding. He is just the right size and shape for me , but he is very “jiggy” and just goes nuts in a group of more than 3 horses. He HAS to be in the front of the pack and gets nervous and dances when he is separated from the group. I want to keep him because I like him and I will loose my shorts if I sell him , as is. Is there any cure for this behavior, or should I just take my lumps and send him down the road. I ride with large groups often and the smallest group I ride with is 6-7. I am an experienced rider and not a “bigger bit, hit'em harder” type, but I can be firm if it is warranted. Now I am either on his mouth all of the time and he is dancing in place or we are out in front by a mile and I can't enjoy socializing . Thanks

Answer: I think you know the answer to this, and you are correct “ take my lumps and send him down the road.” The truth is if you paid for a broke, gentle, trail gelding, you have already taken the lumps, the only question when do you accept that truth and deal with it. Horses are for pleasure, and trail riding is to enjoy and relax, this guy makes that impossible, and at the age of 7 he is not going to change just because you wish it so. I am not saying these problems can not be changed, but the effort required is more than the price of a better replacement most of the time. This animal is a prime example of an abused horse. I say this not because he has been beat or treated inhumanly in his past, but because someone has turned him into a horse that is barely safe and will not be easy to enjoy without much stress and work for the horse and rider and, THAT should never have been allowed to happen.

Question # 5: At what age does a foal quit “nibbling/mouthing” everything? I have a 4 month old colt that wants everything in his mouth. This makes it difficult in working with picking up his feet, putting on the halter, etc. He wants to bite on the halter (he's fine once it's on!), wants to bit my back side while I'm bent picking up his feet, pulls the halters off their hooks and drags them around, nibbles on the corral boards, etc. 

Answer: There are several possible reasons for a horse to be doing these things. Lacking some mineral and the beginnings of a attitude are two but, my guess is youngster is bored out of his skull because of too much attention and no just horse time. Turn him out with some buddies, equine buddies, and let him have some time to develop his social skills the way they are suppose to. Horses will help this guy figure out what is good to nibble on and what is off limits. At Four months old the colt can learn many things but he also need time to relax his mind and be with other horses. I see so many animals that never get turn out time and they never develop the same learning skills as those that people try to teach everything before the age of six months. If you chose to ignore this advise then you will have to teach him the proper respect and that biting even in play is not acceptable for a horse even if only “playing.” Good Luck 

Question # 6: I have a 5yr old unregistered Missouri foxtrotter mare that last spring I bred to a spotted paso Fino (registered). I do not expect a registered foal, but the owner of the stud gave me papers for a registration, for a spotted saddle horse, can this be done?

Answer: People are starting and/or expanding several registries at any given point in time, currently the books of the MFTHBA are closed. This means that to register a foal in the MFTHBA both the parents must be registered. Also in the MFTHBA the stallion must be approved or blue papered. Approval means that the horse have demonstrated the ability to fox trot to an inspector, and “Blue Papered” means that not only are both parents registered but also all the grand parents and great grand parents as well . Some newer breeds allow horses to be registered if by an approved stallion regardless of the mare, others require at least one parent and still others have half registries so an animal can be papered but have limitations on the registration of the next generation. In short yes this can be done in some registries.

Question # 7: First of all, I began reading some of your answers cautiously, but when I read what you wrote to the person who responded with a different solution to a biting horse, you won my respect! Okay, down to business! I was just hired to train horses for a man, however, all 17 are Foxtrotters, and I don't know much about training them in their gaits. I know what I am doing to get the basic idea to them that I am dominant and they follow me, but I was wondering if you could fill me in on the differences in gaits and the best ways to help the horse to pick them up? I have been told that my main student foxtrots for sure, but what are the differences between that and a regular trot?

Answer: First let me say that the most important part of starting any horse is the being broke. The gaits will evolve without much trouble on most horses if we remember a few simple concepts.
Foxtrotting horses are performing a relaxed gait with slight collection for style. This means that the horses need to be relaxed and light on the bit, willing to be collected, responsive and willing. If you teach them to work well with their head in a natural position, that being with the nose parallel to the shoulder and high enough that the eye is slightly above the withers, and able to maintain a slow or moderate gait without having to fight with them to keep the slower gaits, you have the basics for finding the proper gaits. A horse in this position will be able to use its natural gaits. Some horses will be trotty and others will tend to the pace, and those horses may need some adjustments if you or the owner find the natural gaits of these horses unacceptable. If you wish a horse to move in a more lateral gait, (one closer to a pace) then getting the head higher and or bringing the nose in will increase this tendency. If you wish your horse to be more diagonal then lowering the head and letting the nose extend will increase those tendencies. The things that move the overall center of gravity backward will increase the pace tendency and moving the center of gravity forward will increase the trot. Read the next question and answer for a bit more on this.

Question # 8: Dear Uncle Albert, Finally!! Someone who can answer my question!! I am a pretty experienced rider, having ridden for about 20 years now, however I have no experience with gaited horses. I recently fell in love with, and bought a beautiful 7 yr. old Foxtrotter gelding. I can get him to do his extended, flat-footed walk, and I know he can Foxtrot, because he does it when he is excited. However he can be VERY stubborn, and I have A LOT of trouble getting him to do it on command, all he wants to do is hard trot. What can I do to get him into this wonderful gait more easily? I have been told to use chains, spurs, a heavier bit etc. Please help us!

Answer: First let me say that a true foxtrot is a relaxed gait and your statement that he does foxtrot when he is excited leads me to believe that he is really racking or doing a stepping pace when he gets excited. The biggest changes that you will need to make in learning to ride gaited horses after 20 years on non gaited horses are to allow the horse to maintain a more natural posture and that light contact is a good thing for it gives you constant and instant input on helping change or hold the desirable gaits. Most western breeds now ask the horse to keep its top line level and nose down. While this may work well for some things it is not the best posture for most gaited horse. When you see a horse out in the field going somewhere with a purpose and in a gait you will notice that its head is high enough that the horse’s eyes are above the withers and yet low enough that the cheek bones are still lower than the withers. Also notice that the horse will seldom carry its nose either vertical or horizontal but will usually be carrying the bridge of the nose parallel to the shoulder. A horse in this position will be able to use its natural gaits. If you wish a horse to move in a more lateral gait, (one closer to a pace) then getting the head higher and or bringing the nose in will increase this tendency. If you wish your horse to be more diagonal then lowering the head and letting the nose extend will increase those tendencies. When your horse gets excited his head comes up and his back hollows out some this will allow him to rack and actually make it difficult for a horse to trot. 

What you need to work on is getting your horse to walk in the flat foot walk (this is the extended flat - footed walk you spoke of) and encourage him to go faster and at the same time ask him to lift his head so that his eyes are as high as his withers. As you encourage him to go faster also with light contact ask him to be more collected. If he does get rough riding slow him down a bit and then try again always pushing him to stay smooth while increasing him speed. Over time this horse should develop a nice foxtrot that will be comfortable and enjoyable to ride. Also you might wish to either ride a friend’s horse that you know to be foxtrotting or find some way to know for sure what you are looking for from your horse so you will know how to help him learn and maintain these gaits.

Question # 9: Hi! I am new to the internet, so please forgive me if I do something stupid. I have had Foxtrotters for 4 years now. We love them. We use them strictly as long distance trail horses. We usually ride 25 miles or so a day when we are on our rides. (we don't ride that much every day). We ride in the upper part of the lower peninsula of Michigan. The terrain varies, but it is generally sandy which really wears the toes of our horses shoes out. What I am looking for are angles. I was told that 54' in front and 50' behind is pretty normal for trail horses. For 2 of ours, that works pretty well. For one, my farrier just can't get his angles in back that low because of the way his feet grow. We can get him down to about 53'. Then we set him about 56' in front. But that makes him not as smooth as he could be. We tried putting wedged pads on in reverse to build up his toe and lower the heel. That wasn't too bad except when he slides his back feet into place, he'd end up sliding his shoes off. With the pads, the shoes just didn't stay on as well for 6 weeks. Is there anything we can do to his angles to smooth him out a little more? Would setting him 53' in back and 54' in front do any good? He is a short backed horse and very animated in the back end. He can really foxtrot along, he just could be smoother, maybe. 

My second question is concerning a 3 year old that we just broke. He is a wonderful horse. We have him set at 54' in front and 50' in back, and he is nice and smooth. But his stride is so-o-o-o long that his hind feet come up and hit his front. We tried snubbing his toes, but then it changes his gait and he gets rougher. We tried setting his shoes forward a tad, but that makes him choppier. I don't know what to try to keep him so smooth but not forge his feet. Would you have any suggestions that we could try with either of these horses? I really enjoy them, and I probably wouldn't part with any of them because they are the best horses we've had, but I'd just like to help them with their feet if I can. We used to own Quarter horses for many years. We were in a very bad accident a couple of years ago. Neither my hubby nor I was ever supposed to ride a horse again, especially me because I injured my back pretty bad. But we couldn't give up riding, so we started looking for something that we could ride without too much pain. Ta-daa, it turned out to be foxtrotting horses and we're still going! They are just great horses.

Answer: First; regardless of what any one tells you no horse should be shod in a manner that fails to promote soundness. As a general rule most foxtrotting horses will work with 50'-54' in the FRONT and 53'-57' in the BACK and I would object to setting any horse more than three or four degrees from that horse’s natural angles. I too have heard that a horse that is to trotty can be helped by lowering the angle on the rear, but as is with most things if you go too far it works against you. One reason for this is that as the angle is lowered the toe is longer and the idea is that the foot will stay on the ground a bit longer before breaking over the toe. While this may be true after the angle gets too low the horse has to jerk the foot up faster to get over that addition toe angle and this make for a trotter movement. Have some help you and watch this horse go my bet is that his back end is out to far behind him now and not working under him much at all. I start all horses with out shoes and stay off the rocks riding only in the soft ground. This allows the natural angles to develop and then after riding the horse a few week I shoe it with those natural angles and I find that while it varies, most of the time on my horses it is near 52 in the front and 53 or 54 in the rear. Then as the training progresses I can adjust the angles some if that horse needs a little adjustment or help with its natural movements. 

Question # 10:  First off. thanks for this web page, I have used it many times and is my primary reference when I need help. I am having trouble with my farrier. He just shod my foxtrotter. and all of a sudden the horse can't fox trot! He is as rough as a 3 gaited horse and I don't know what to do. I am having him back out to look at him but am not sure what to tell him to do. Any advice on angles and shoeing for the "perfect gate". How much toe should a foxtrotter have? I have heard between 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 depending on the horse and the average angle is 52 in the front and 55 in the back. What is your advice. Thanks

 Answer: Shoeing a horse should not normally create much change in the horse or its gait so examine why it did this time. If it had been a longer than normal time since the last shoeing there might be a big change in the way the horse moves. Other possible problems would include a change of angles over 2 or 3 degrees or changing one end up while changing the other down so that the net difference is even greater. Also changing the brand or type of shoe can effect the weight or shape and thereby the gait. Another problem I see some times is people have a green horse that is just starting to learn its gaits but its feet are getting long and they know that the horse needs to be shod so they stop riding while they wait for a farrier. When the horse is finally shod, they jump on the horse expecting it to remember everything, and if it fails to remember everything then the fairer must have messed up. If a horse seems to forget its gaits after being shod, I would work the horse in the round pen just doing things that remind it of where we are in its training and see if that serves to get things back in order. Allowing the horse to get the feel of the new shoes a day or two can also be helpful.

Question # 11:  What is the foxtrot?

Answer: To understand the definition of a gaited horse one must first know a little about the way horses move.   The trot is the most common gait of the horse other than a walk.  Horses perform the trot as a diagonal gait, moving a front foot and the opposite rear foot at the same time.  A horse that is trotting has two feet on the ground at a time, but is not supported at all almost one third of the time.   The jar felt when riding a trotting horse is caused by the free fall of the horse and the rise needed to carry the horse from one step of the trot to the next step. A gaited horse does not have the jar caused by the trot, because the gaited horse has a broken gait that allows at least one foot on the ground at any given time. This creates the smooth ride of a gaited horse because the horse is always supported.

Some gaited horses have lateral gaits, i.e., they move the front foot and then the rear foot on one side and then the front foot and the rear foot on the other side. The Walking Horse and the Racking Horse are two of the most common gaited horses having lateral gaits. The Foxtrot is a diagonal gait with the leg support on opposite corners and therefore is a more sure-footed movement than a lateral gate. The Foxtrotting Horse was developed in the Ozarks because of the need for a sure-footed, smooth-riding horse for transportation.

The distinctive Foxtrot Rhythm is created by the front foot touching the ground a split second before the opposite rear foot. A Foxtrotting Horse traveling on a gravel or chat surface can be distinguished by the sound of the broken trot. The sound of this rhythm is produced by one front foot touching the ground a split second before the diagonal rear foot, and then a pause followed by the other front foot and then the other rear foot a split second later. This rhythm has been described as having the same cadence as the phrase “a chunk of meat and two potatoes.” The sliding action of the rear feet also helps the ride be smooth. The Foxtrotting Horse gives the illusion of a horse walking in the front and trotting in the back.

A square trot is a diagonal gait but it is not a broken gait. A running walk is a broken gait, but it is not a diagonal gait. A flat pace is neither broken nor diagonal.

After the rhythm of the standard we can look at some the fine points of the fox trot. The back end of a horse is the second most important part of the foxtrot. When a horse is foxtrotting correctly, the hocks will have a definite break over as the foot is picked up. This action also helps create the distinctive snap of the tail. A horse that is not breaking over in the hocks is gaity in the back end, and will not have a pronounced up and down snap in its tail. When a horse is setting down the rear foot, the motion should be a smooth sliding action that is low to the ground. A horse that carries its foot forward but hesitates before setting it down either is being trotty or has a tight stifle. The amount of over stride is another consideration, but not as defining. A foxtrotting horse should over stride. However, a horse with a large over stride in the trot may be over striding its natural ability. If this is the case that horse is gaity in the rear end and will have a side to side motion in its tail.

The next thing to look at is the way a horse handles its front end. The two most important things are shoulder movement and length of stride. A horse should lead its front end motion with the shoulder. The front foot should move forward in a smooth motion and be set down as the completion of an extension of the shoulder and front leg. Horses that do not get a full extension of the leg and shoulder have wasted up and down motion in the knees. A horse that is hard trotting will appear to have a “big lick” front end, but such a horse will not give a smooth ride and does not have the correct rhythm.

Finally the animation of the horse should be considered. A horse’s animation is the head shake and tail movement.  First, a horse that is shaking its head without regard to the rhythm of its feet is not in time with anything and probably is not even foxtrotting. A horse that is foxtrotting will use his head as a counter balance to his back end with the saddle setting on the pivot point. This is one reason a foxtrot should be smooth. Slow motion film of a horse with the correct foxtrot rhythm, will show that the head motion is in time with the rear feet.

The tail carriage of a horse that is foxtrotting will bounce when the hock reaches the break over point. A horse that is to trotty will not have the same bounce in its tail as a foxtrotting horse. The tail of a hard trotting horse will bounce with the back end of the horse instead of slightly before the back end. If a horse does not have a pronounced bounce in its tail, check to see if the hocks of that horse are breaking over.

I know this is a lot of information and may be difficult to visualize, but you can purchase the 'Judges Standard Video' that is available from National Association of Breeders web site or from the advertisement in the MFTHBA Journal. The video should be helpful in understanding what a foxtrot is and what to look for in a foxtrotting horse.

Question # 12:  I have been participating in some limited distance competitive rides with my 11 yr old MFT Mare. She has been doing great with the exception of respiration particularly on very warm days. Do I just need to condition her better or What?  I bought her 1 ˝ yrs ago she was used for a brood mare, but also ridden a fair amount.  Since I purchased her she is ridden a lot!

Answer: First I would advise any one that is having problems to check with a Vet. That said, I would expect that if you are not having problems when riding or doing “normal” things that you are asking this mare to do more than you are preparing her for. If you are even thinking of riding competitive distance rides with any horse you should condition the animal for an extended period of time to get her ready. Horses that are to be worked at all need to be conditioned at least five days per week and given light exercise on the off days. One good program for long distance training is to give them aerobic work every other day and on the off days slower work but for longer periods of time, for example on the aerobic days start with less but work up to two 20 minutes work outs with a 15 minute slow walk in the middle and on the slow days just alternating walk and trot with enough walk to never get the breathing heavy. Remember that 90 days of conditioning a horse, even an adult, is the least you should do before competitive riding.

Question # 13:  I have a 4 year old MFT, gelding. I purchased this horse last year, from an older man who didn't ride him, after he received him back from the trainers with maybe 30 days riding time. I have ridden him approximately 30-40 days last year and this year whenever weather has permitted. He has had some "who's in charge" problems and we are making progress with those. He will be a very nice horse with more riding. I however, am at a loss with two problems and am hoping you can help me with them. (1) When riding he sometimes will drop the bit or suck it up and down. He doesn't do it all the time only sometimes during the riding. I'm using an aluminum low port, short cheeked bit. He doesn't gap his mouth. He has two wrinkles in the corner of his mouth and the bit seems to be in the correct place. He has had his teeth floated, no wolf teeth. He seems happy with the bit and easily accepts into his mouth. (2) I can trailer this horse away from his pasture mate on a trail ride and he is a perfect horse. If my husband takes his gelding and we go on a trail ride my horse can be a handful. My horse seems to be the dominate one in the pasture. Riding with the other gelding he doesn't want him behind him or very far in front of him. Behind him he doesn't want him close to him. In front of him he doesn't want him out of his site, he wants to speed up to catch up with him and he doesn't want to listen to the rider. Suggestions please??

Answer: This is a problem that is strangely more common with a “gentle” horse than with those that take a bit more to get under control in the first place and I believe that is the problem. He still has not been broke. He is gentle and has no real objection to being ridden, he just has a dominate side that means that he must watch his stable mate if that is an option. To break this habit, first go back to the round pen and see if you truly have his attention all the time or if he is just trying to do what you ask but without the focus. My bet is that he is easily distracted when you are working with him and while he may do what you ask, he is also willing to cheat a little any time something he is more interested in is around. To fix this, tie your husband’s horse near the work pen and require your horse to give you complete attention and as you get it have your husband ride around the round on the outside while you continue to work this guy out and watch his ears and keep them on you. Increase the temptation for distraction and over time you can get him to give you full attention. Then take it out on the trail, Good Luck !!

Question # 14:  You talk about head set and getting the head higher. I have a FT that carries his head to low and I need to raise it but you never tell us how exactly to do this. I try collecting him up and getting him off his front end but his head is set more like a quarter horse unless he is alert and looking at something and then raises is way up. He is super smooth then but when he relaxes his head comes back down and his gait gets choppy again.

Answer: Yes there is little out there on how to set a horse’s head and what to do in this regard. Most of the reason for this is that not all horses respond the same way and few if any riders hold the reins exactly the same way. Also the type of bit you use and where the bit is set in the horse’s mouth can change how the horse will respond to the same pressure. Further, how fresh the horse is that day and how the ride started are also a big factors in how this horse will respond. What follows is some general information and advice on ways to look at and resolve these problems involving mouth and head sets. There are several other opinions, all of which may have worked on some horse with some bit for what ever reason.

i. First let me state that the condition of the horse’s mouth and mind have as much to do with this as any single thing. Some horses have been trained to give to a slight pressure and that they will be rewarded for doing so. Some have been trained that a slight pressure is a bit of security and they look for it. Others have learned that if there is a bit of discomfort they can lean into it and the pain will go away, numbness is the solution for many horses that have learned no other way to get away from discomfort.

ii. Some horses have a tendency to favor the right or left side of the bit and even then it may be for different reasons. Some pull on the left rein but do so with the right side of their mouth, others pull on the left rein but use the left side of the mouth to carry the weight of the bit. And the same for the right side.

iii. Most horses will be less forgiving of what they see as mistakes when the horse is really fresh, and the answer is not to just ride the fresh horse till he comes down because this creates other problems as well. ANY TIME YOU ARE TRYING TO FIX A PROBLEM THE HORSE SHOULD HAVE A RELAXED MIND AND BODY WITHOUT BEING TIRED. For most horses a good way to approach a fresh horse is work them in a round pen until they start a good sweat, then walk them and/or wash them off and give them a bit of free time. Then saddle them up and start instruction with a relaxed horse and fresh mouth that is not hurting from correction that was created by trying to control a fresh horse.

iv. It is my full belief that if you are having problems with your horse that are related to the mouth - LESS IS MORE - THIS MEANS USE THE BIT ONLY FOR TEACHING AND USE ENVIRONMENT FOR THE CONTROL.  In other words do not use a bigger bit to solve problems!!  f you have control issues, ride the horse is a round pen and work with a bit that is one you and the horse can both be comfortable with. Start with simple flexing exercises asking the horse to stand in the center of the ring and turn his head to one side then hold it there with as little pressure as possible remembering to keep your hands low. Only ask for a slight give at first, then ask for more, but each time hold only 90% of what you have ask for. This teaches your horse that if he does what you have ask he is rewarded. Practice this on both sides till the horse will stand and quietly and hold his head at or near your foot on either side with almost no pressure. As you start this the horse may have a tendency to try to turn, if so, softly ask him to stand by resisting the turn with the rein on the other side and using your legs. This exercise is about responsive training and will not happen at once. But after you get the above goals working then you are ready to start lifting you hands both at the same time, almost no extra pressure, just a slight lift, your horse will respond quickly that lifting his head is the answer. Then work on teaching him to lift and turn his head each side. Your are finished with these exercises if and when you can using only finger tip pressure get the horse to raise, turn and hold, or lower turn and hold to either side, as low as below your feet and as high as above your knees. The next step is teaching him to respond to these at a walk as well.

v. Remember to never work on this or any other intensive mind conditioning more than the attention span of the horse, and over time that span will increase.

vi. Over weeks as you are working on these exercises you will find that your horse is more responsive and will raise or lower his head in response to your hands and this will allow you to set the head and affect the gaits.

vii. I realize that there are many biting exercises that will also raise a horse’s head, but none that I know are as good for the overall results as these. With this you keep a soft mouth and a responsive horse while maintaining control and contact with the horse, while fixing most other mouth problems rather than creating new ones.

Question # 15:  In March, I bought a 6-year-old registered foxtrotter. His gait was beautiful and anyone could get on and ride him in it. Over the next six weeks, we increased his grain (his former owners hadn't ridden much and I ride 3-4 times a week), he was ridden more and he was shoed. His gait evaporated. Over the summer, he began to pace. I took him to a foxtrotter farrier in the area to make sure that his angles and hoof length are good. I've tried different bits. No matter what I do, I only see glimpses of the wonderful gaited horse I bought. I feel like I've ruined him. With winter approaching, the shoes will be pulled, and I'll have a lot of indoor arena time (it's Minnesota, after all) - what do you suggest I work on? Would walking over cavelettis help?

Answer:  Walking over the cavelettis will help but only if you are correcting whatever it was that you have changed. I truly doubt that fact that you are feeding this horse more is the real problem, however if you not only feed more, but are also limiting free exercise and then when you ride you are pushing the gaits and also riding a fresh horse, these together could. What you need to do is remember that to gait well a foxtrotting horse must be relaxed. If you are riding this horse as a high headed fast gaited horse then he will change gears and become more lateral. See that you are not feeding him more than he needs, that you are keeping him relaxed and letting him work with a natural head set (lower in your case) and walk him over the cavelettis to help square up his walk.

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